The best circular saw blade for metal roofing is a 7-1/4″ carbide or cermet-tipped metal-cutting blade with a high tooth count (40T to 68T) that cuts cool to protect the panel’s paint and finish. These blades are vastly superior to abrasive wheels because they reduce sparking, minimize heat buildup, and leave a burr-free edge on steel and aluminum panels.
When you are up on a roof or setting up a cutting station on the ground, having the right blade makes the difference between a clean installation and a rusty disaster. If you use the wrong blade, you risk burning the protective coating, which voids warranties and leads to rust.
This guide covers the top metal roofing blades on the market, how to choose the right one for your specific panel type, and how to cut safely.
Quick Summary — Best Blades for Metal Roofing
If you need to make a quick decision, here is how the top contenders stack up.
Comparison Table: Top 5 Metal Roofing Blades
| Blade Model | Best For | Tooth Count | Panel Types | Cut Quality | Heat / Sparks | Ideal User |
| Diablo Steel Demon | Premium / Pro | 48T – 60T | Standing Seam, R-Panel, Trim | Very Clean | Very Low | Pro Contractor |
| IRWIN Metal Cutting | Best Overall | 68T | Corrugated, Thin Gauge, Siding | Clean | Low | DIY / Roofer |
| Milwaukee Metal | Cordless Saws | 48T | Unistrut, Panels, EMT | Clean | Low | Electrician / Pro |
| Malco / True Metal | Specialty | 48T – 58T | Heavy Gauge, Standing Seam | Very Clean | Low | Metal Roofer |
| Evolution Style | Budget / Value | 40T | General Steel, Rebar, Angle Iron | Moderate | Medium | DIY / Hobbyist |
How to Choose the Best Circular Saw Blade for Metal Roofing
Cutting metal roofing is different from cutting framing lumber. You are dealing with thin, hard steel that vibrates, and delicate paint coatings that burn easily. Here is what you need to look for.
Blade Size
For most DIYers and pros, a standard 7-1/4″ circular saw blade is the standard. It fits most corded (Sidewinder and Worm Drive) and cordless saws. While smaller 5-3/8″ or 6-1/2″ saws are handy for trim work, the 7-1/4″ size offers the best stability and depth of cut for stacking panels.
Carbide vs. Cermet Tips
Standard carbide tips are great, but for metal, you want Cermet (Ceramic-Metallic) tips if you can afford them. Cermet resists heat better than standard carbide. This is crucial because heat destroys blades and damages the Galvalume or paint coating on the roofing panel.
Tooth Count and Geometry
For metal roofing, more teeth generally mean a cleaner cut.
- 40T – 48T: Good for general cutting, speed, and slightly thicker panels.
- 60T – 80T: Best for thin-gauge corrugated panels and trim where you need a finished edge with zero burrs.
Look for a TCG (Triple Chip Grind). This tooth geometry is designed to chip away metal efficiently rather than slicing it like wood, which increases durability.
Corded vs. Cordless Saws
You can use either. However, metal cutting blades require high torque. If you use a cordless saw, ensure you have high-output batteries. A blade with a thinner kerf (cut width) helps cordless saws run longer and cut faster.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Never use a wood blade: It is crucial to understand that not all circular saw blades are the same. Wood blades have the wrong geometry for hard steel; using one will hook the metal, likely shatter the teeth, and cause dangerous kickback.
- Avoid abrasive wheels: They generate massive heat and showers of hot sparks that can pit and rust the finish of the panels you aren’t cutting.
- Don’t install the blade backward: Unlike cutting vinyl siding (where you reverse a wood blade), metal cutting blades are designed to cut in the forward direction.
Best Circular Saw Blades for Metal Roofing (In-Depth Reviews)
Here is a closer look at the best blades available for cutting corrugated, standing seam, and R-panels.
IRWIN 7-1/4″ 68T Metal-Cutting Circular Saw Blade (4935560)
Verdict: The best overall pick for most homeowners and general contractors due to its high tooth count and smooth finish on thin metals.
The IRWIN 68-tooth blade is a classic in the metal cutting world. Because it has a very high tooth count for its size, it acts almost like a cold saw. It is designed specifically for thin-gauge mild steel, making it perfect for corrugated roofing panels and thin gutters.
The laser-cut vents reduce vibration, which is the enemy of a clean cut in sheet metal. When the panel vibrates, you get a jagged edge. This blade runs smooth and true. The anti-kickback tooth shoulder also adds a layer of safety, preventing the blade from feeding too aggressively into the material.
Pros
- High 68-tooth count creates a very smooth edge.
- Anti-vibration vents keep noise down and cut straight.
- Excellent price-to-performance ratio.
- Widely available in most hardware stores.
Cons
- Not suitable for thick steel (over 1/8″) or heavy angle iron.
- Can load up if cutting aluminum without wax/lubricant.
Diablo Steel Demon 7-1/4″ Metal Cutting Blade (D0748CFR / D0770F)
Verdict: The premium choice for professional roofers who need “cold cut” technology to preserve expensive paint warranties.
Diablo has revolutionized metal cutting with its Cermet II carbide teeth. This blade is engineered to cut “cool.” This means the heat transfers to the metal chips, not the blade or the workpiece. For metal roofing, this is vital. If the panel gets too hot, the paint blisters, and the galvanization fails.
The Steel Demon leaves a burr-free edge that is often cool to the touch immediately after cutting. It cuts faster than the Irwin but still leaves a pristine edge. It is ideal for cutting standing seam panels where precision is mandatory.
Pros
- Cermet teeth last up to 3x longer than standard carbide.
- Cool-touch cuts protect panel coatings.
- Thin kerf reduces load on the saw motor.
- Shock-resistant brazing helps teeth survive metal impact.
Cons
- More expensive than standard options.
- Teeth can be brittle if dropped on concrete.
Milwaukee 7-1/4″ 48T Metal Cutting Circular Saw Blade
Verdict: The best workhorse blade for contractors using cordless saws who need to switch between roofing panels, conduit, and struts.
Milwaukee designed this blade to pair perfectly with their M18 Fuel saws, though it works great on any circular saw. The 48-tooth count is a “happy medium.” It is aggressive enough to cut through Unistrut and thicker shelving but fine enough to handle metal roofing panels without shredding them.
The blade features “cobalt-infused” tungsten carbide, which extends the life of the sharpness. It also runs relatively quietly. If you are a general contractor who needs one blade to cut the roof panels and the electrical conduit for the solar install afterwards, this is the one.
Pros
- Engineered for cordless efficiency (more cuts per charge).
- Versatile enough for roofing, conduit, and thick steel.
- Durable teeth resist fracture.
Cons
- Slightly rougher edge on very thin metal compared to the Irwin 68T.
- Paint coating on the blade can gum up slightly on the first few cuts.
Malco / True Metal Supply 7-1/4″ Metal Roofing Blade (MCCB7)
Verdict: A specialized, heavy-duty blade designed specifically for the metal building industry.
Malco is a brand that specializes in HVAC and metal roofing tools, so they understand the material. This blade is often rebranded or sold alongside specialized metal-cutting saws. It is designed to withstand the rigors of cutting standing seam ribs, which are thicker and harder than standard corrugated sheets.
It offers a very stable cut with minimal wandering. This is important when making long rip cuts down the length of a panel. It creates very little friction, keeping the sparks to an absolute minimum.
Pros
- Designed specifically for metal building components.
- Extremely stable during long rip cuts.
- Industrial-grade brazing.
Cons
- Harder to find in big-box stores.
- Price point is usually high.
Evolution-Style 7-1/4″ 40T Metal Cutting Circular Saw Blade
Verdict: The best value option for DIYers who have a one-time project and want a decent cut without breaking the bank.
This category covers budget-friendly blades compatible with Evolution saws and standard circular saws. These are typically 40-tooth mild steel blades. While 40T is on the lower end for thin roofing, it is perfectly adequate for rough-cutting R-panels for a shed or barn.
They cut fast and cool, though you may notice a slight burr on the underside of the cut that needs filing. For the price, they are an excellent alternative to using dangerous abrasive discs.
Pros
- Very affordable.
- Cuts fast through thicker structural steel.
- Fits most standard saws.
Cons
- Leaves a rougher edge than 60T+ blades.
- Louder than premium blades like Diablo.
- Shorter lifespan.
How to Cut Metal Roofing with a Circular Saw (Step-by-Step)
Once you have your blade, technique is everything. Before you begin, ensure you know how to change your circular saw blade safely to verify the new metal-cutting disc is seated correctly on the arbor.
- Prep your workspace: Set up sturdy sawhorses. You need to support the panel so it doesn’t bend, but leave a gap for the blade to pass through so you don’t cut your supports.
- Measure and mark: Use a tape measure and a straight edge. Mark your line with a permanent marker or a scribe.
- Flip the panel: This is the pro tip. Turn the metal roofing panel finish-side down. This allows the saw blade to cut into the painted surface rather than exiting through it, which reduces chipping and paint damage.
- Set blade depth: Adjust your circular saw depth so the blade extends only about 1/4″ to 1/2″ below the panel. This reduces friction and kickback.
- Clamp it down: Metal panels vibrate intensely. Use clamps to hold the panel to the sawhorses.
- Make the cut: Start the saw away from the metal and let it reach full speed. Move the saw steadily through the metal. Do not force it — let the blade do the work.
- Check the edge: After cutting, handle the edge carefully. If there is a slight burr, knock it down with a file or sanding sponge.
Safety Tips and Gear for Cutting Metal Roofing
Cutting metal is louder and more dangerous than cutting wood. The chips are hot, sharp, and fly everywhere.
- Protect your eyes: Metal chips can bypass standard glasses. Use safety glasses with side shields or a full face shield.
- Protect your ears: Metal cutting circular saws are incredibly loud. Earplugs or earmuffs are non-negotiable.
- Protect your hands: The edges of freshly cut metal roofing are razor-sharp. You need gloves that offer cut resistance but still allow dexterity. For recommendations on durable hand protection, check out our partner site BuyGloves.com for cut-resistant options.
- Cover up: Wear long sleeves and a high neck collar. Hot metal chips will find their way down your shirt if you aren’t careful.
FAQs — Circular Saw Blades for Metal Roofing
Can you cut metal roofing with a regular wood circular saw blade?
No. A wood blade has the wrong tooth geometry and carbide density. It will hook the thin metal, likely breaking the blade teeth and causing severe kickback. It creates a jagged, ruined edge.
What tooth count is best for metal roofing?
For standard corrugated or standing seam panels, a higher tooth count is better. Look for 48T to 68T for a 7-1/4″ blade. This ensures a smooth finish.
Are carbide metal-cutting blades better than abrasive wheels?
Yes. Abrasive wheels grind the metal, creating immense heat and sparks. This heat burns the paint and galvanization, leading to rust. Carbide blades cut cool and leave a cleaner edge.
Is a 7-1/4″ blade enough for most metal roofs?
Yes, this is the standard size and will cut any roofing panel depth. It also fits the saws most homeowners already own.
Can I use a cordless circular saw on metal roofing?
Absolutely. Modern cordless saws have plenty of torque. Just make sure to use a high-quality metal cutting blade to reduce the drain on your battery.
How many roofs can one blade cut before it wears out?
It depends on the quality of the blade. A premium blade like the Diablo Steel Demon can last for hundreds of cuts. However, hitting a nail or cutting through thick steel angles will shorten its life significantly.
What is the safest way to support panels while cutting?
Support the panel along its entire length if possible, using 2x4s across sawhorses. Ensure the off-cut piece is also supported so it doesn’t drop and bend the metal before the cut is finished.
How do I avoid burning the paint on standing-seam panels?
Use a “cold cut” blade (like Cermet), cut with the good face down, and move the saw at a steady pace. If you move too slowly, friction builds up heat.
Final Verdict — Which Circular Saw Blade Should You Buy?
Choosing the right blade comes down to your budget and how much cutting you plan to do.
- Best Overall: The IRWIN 68T Metal Cutting Blade is the champion for general use. It creates a smooth edge, fits any saw, and is reasonably priced.
- Best Premium/Pro: If you are cutting expensive standing seam panels, get the Diablo Steel Demon. The Cermet teeth run cool and protect the panel’s warranty.
- Best Budget: If you just have a few cuts to make on a shed, an Evolution-style 40T blade will get the job done faster and cleaner than an abrasive wheel.
Remember, the blade is only part of the equation. Secure your panels, wear your safety gear, and let the tool do the work for a clean, professional install.
If you are looking for more tool advice, check out our other guides on circular saws and how to sharpen a circular saw blade to keep your equipment in top shape.
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